Travel guide – mediterranean coast
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Overview
The coastline along the Mediterranean Sea is an alluring destination, renowned for its magnificent scenery with picturesque coves and rocky headlands, turquoise waters, golden beaches and pine forests. The beautiful landscape, where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean is the beginning of the Turquoise Coast, dominated by the mountains of the Taurus range whose cliffs plunge into the sea of intense blue. Further along the Mediterranean one reaches the Turkish Riviera as it is known, the region of Antalya; and together these make up the tourism capital of Turkey. Simple villages share the water's edge with sophisticated resorts, and fishing vessels and pleasure yachts mingle together in the sheltered harbours. Endless days of sunshine make it a paradise for boat cruises, sunbathing and swimming and numerous water sports, and there are a variety of restaurants and bars to round off a day on the water.
The coast also boasts a rich cultural legacy from early civilisations and is imbued with history and legend, found in ancient cities and at sites such as the fires of Chimaera at Olympos, and numerous ruins dotted about the countryside.
Antalya is the main city on the Mediterranean coast and one of the most popular vacation spots, with an attractive harbour setting and the picturesque old quarter of Kaleiçi enclosed within ancient Roman walls. Dominating the town is Antalya’s symbol, the Yivli Minaret (Grooved Minaret) dating back to the 3rd century. The superb Archaeological Museum, housing one of the top collections in the country, is not to be missed. Known as the Turkish Riviera, the Antalya shoreline boasts secluded coves, ancient cities and harbours, seaside towns, sparkling seas and soaring cliffs. The city provides an excellent base for exploring the small towns nearby, as well as caves, waterfalls and Roman ruins, including Perge and the mountain-top remains of Termessos. A 30-minute drive east of Antalya is Aspendos, boasting the finest example of a Roman theatre in the world. Built in the 2nd century AD, it is remarkably intact. In addition to the vast number of archaeological wonders, the area also has a wealth of outdoor activities. Antalya, lying at the foot of the Taurus Mountain range, is host to numerous sporting events throughout the year, including international beach volleyball, triathlons and canoeing competitions.
Things to do and see in or around Antalya
Olympos and the Fires of Chimaera
The ancient site of Olympos dates back to Hellenistic times when it was an important Lycian city and became famous as a place of worship honouring Hephaestos or Vulcan, the God of Fire. Located on a beautiful sandy bay, the ruins are spread out on either side of the Ulupinar River and include a Byzantine bathhouse with mosaic floors, a marble temple entrance, a theatre, and some excavated tombs. The shoreline is also a major protected nesting site for sea turtles. On the rocky slopes above the ancient city are a series of eternal flames issuing from cracks in the rock, caused by the combustion of natural gas seeping out of the mountain. It is possible to extinguish them briefly, but they will always re-ignite and are most impressive in the dark when at their most visible. The fire that comes out of the ground is said to be coming from the mouth of Chimaera, a mythical fire-breathing monster with the head of a lion, the body of a goat and a snake’s tail, who was slain by the Lydian hero, Bellerophon on his winged horse, Pegasus.
The small port town of Fethiye occupies the site of the ancient city Telmessos, with an impressive ancient theatre and numerous Lycian rock tombs. Situated at the head of a pretty island-strewn bay, Fethiye is a popular destination on the stretch of the Mediterranean known as the Turquoise Coast. The town absorbs the tourist traffic and still retains a sense of its old-fashioned rural character, with herds of goats and sheep blocking the roads on market days and the smell of herbs and spices in the air. The bazaar is the biggest in the area and is a must for bargain hunters. Fethiye is home to several remarkable ancient sites. The most conspicuous are the rock tombs dating from the 4th century BC carved in the hillside above the town. Beside the harbour is the Roman amphitheatre and the crumbling remains of a medieval castle built by the Knights of St John. There is a good selection of restaurants on the harbour front and in the narrow streets of the old town. Around Fethiye are numerous unspoiled rocky coves and beaches, crystalline seas, offshore islands, cliffs and pine-covered mountains affording as much relaxation or activity as one chooses. Gulets (sturdy wooden yachts) can be hired in the harbour for day trips around these coastal waters. The beach resort of Oludeniz is just 25 minutes away by dolmus (the local minibuses) and offers numerous activities, including parasailing, pedaloes, banana boating, diving, snorkelling water-skiing; and most famously paragliding.
Things to do and see in or around Fethiye
Dalyan
Dalyan is a pretty fishing village at the foot of the Dalyan River and a popular day-trip from Fethiye. Here tourists can bargain with one of the local fishermen to take them on a tour of the surrounding sights. The first stop is often a mud bath on the banks of the river; the mud contains calcium, magnesium and sulphur and is said to be beneficial for the skin. Another popular stop is Iztuzu Beach (Turtle Beach). This beach is one of the only beaches in the world where the Marine Turtles come and nest. It is unique in that one side of the beach is on the river and the other side is on the sea, so visitors can decide to swim in either fresh or salt water, or simply opt for a long stroll along the sand stretches. On the way back to Dalyan the boat may stop at the ancient Greek city of Kaunos, where visitors can walk to the Ancient Theatre, the Roman Bath, the Temple of Apollon, and the Acropolis up the hill. Dalyan is one hour from Fethiye by road; as you enter the town the wonderful Carian Rock Tombs are immediately visible.
Set on the southeast coast of Turkey where the Aegean Sea meets the Mediterranean, the purpose-built beach resort of Icmeler has a distinctly European flavour, with luxury yachts bobbing in the bay and a cosmopolitan crowd of holidaymakers sipping cocktails at the sea-front bars. Its package-holiday aura is, however, tempered by its scenic setting, with steep hills clad in pine forests plunging into the turquoise waters all around the town. Unlike its close neighbour, the bustling resort of Marmaris just a few miles south, Icmeler has a relaxed village atmosphere, while lacking none of the modern amenities. The resort is scrupulously clean and well maintained, from its regularly raked shingly sand beaches to its litter-free promenade. The town is also resplendent with well-kept gardens, which soften the lines of the dozens of hotel and apartment blocks.
Delightfully situated among towering vertical cliffs, Kas is the region’s second major resort, and although lacking in idyllic stretches of beach, the dramatic rocky coastline creates easy access to clear and unpolluted Mediterranean waters; and an abundance of outdoor activities, and a lively nightlife have maintained its reputation as a satisfying holiday destination. It is the centre for glass-bottomed boat trips to the sunken cities around Kekova Island from where remains of mysterious civilisations can be viewed just below the surface of the water, and visits can be arranged to the surrounding archaeological sites at Demre, Myra and the Xanthos Valley. The town is built around the remains of ancient Antiphellos, and there are ruins of a Hellenistic theatre, the monumental Lion Tomb, and some hillside rock tombs in and around the town. Despite the tourist development of what was once a simple fishing village, Kas still preserves its small-town charm, with narrow cobbled streets and novel boutique shops.
One of the larger vacation resorts, Marmaris is probably the most European of the Turkish resort towns on the Mediterranean coast, and a bustling cosmopolitan tourist centre in the summer months. Marmaris also marks the start of the Turquoise Coast along the Mediterranean Sea. Built around an extensive natural bay at the foot of forested mountain slopes, the town is the best base for some of the finest sailing on the Mediterranean, with a modern marina catering for private yachts set and the Blue Voyage cruise business. According to legend the town got its name when, not finding the castle he had commissioned on the hill to his liking, Süleyman the Magnificent muttered 'Mimari as' ('Hang the architect!').
The Mediterranean resort of Oludeniz is situated just a few minutes drive from Fethiye and has an astonishing crystal-clear lagoon and a beautiful photogenic grey-white beach that adorns almost every Turkish travel brochure. Despite being developed with many hotels and apartment blocks, the scenery here is spectacular and the town is a lively place to spend a holiday. Perched on the mountain plateau overlooking Oludeniz, the small resort of Hisaronu caters almost exclusively for British holidaymakers and is packed with bars, nightclubs, gift shops and restaurants. With their beautiful, rugged surrounds, both Oludeniz and Hisaronu are fast becoming realised for their potential as an outdoor activity destination: the beach at Oludeniz offers a huge variety of watersports, there is paragliding from Babadag Mountain onto the beach below, and a selection of boat trips depart regularly from Oludeniz or Fethiye for a day exploring the scenic coastline. The numerous paths that wind their way along the hillsides offer spectacular views and sights, including the fascinating 'Greek Village', which was evacuated during the Turkish-Greek war of 1919-1923.
Situated on a peninsula and flanked by two stretches of golden beach, the pretty resort town of Side is a jumble of old and new, with an extensive range of tourist accommodation, shops, late-night bars and restaurants mixed in among the ruins of the ancient city. In the centre of town is the magnificent 2nd-century theatre with beautiful views towards the sea, and the remains of the Roman Baths houses an impressive collection of artefacts. Busy streets that lead down to the sea are lined with souvenir shops selling typical Turkish handicrafts like carpets, jewellery and leather goods.
Climate
Both the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts have a typical Mediterranean climate with mild winters and hot summers, with temperature often rising above 30ºC (86ºF) in July and August. Showers are unlikely in the summer months, but the rainfall is quite high in winter.
Health
Twenty cases of bird flu have been reported in northern, eastern and central Turkey, but there is no evidence of the virus passing between humans; the four people who died had close contact with poultry. Authorities are taking stringent measures to contain the outbreaks. Visitors are unlikely to be at risk, but are advised to avoid close exposure to caged, domestic or wild birds, and to ensure that poultry and egg dishes are cooked thoroughly. There is a risk of malaria in the south-eastern part of the country, but not in the main tourist areas in the west and south-west of the country, although mosquitoes can still be an irritation in summer. There are no vaccination requirements. Most tap water in the larger towns and cities has been chlorinated, but bottled water is still recommended for drinking. Food from street vendors should be treated with caution. Medical facilities and standard of health care are not high in state hospitals and private health insurance is recommended.
The basics
Getting Around
The best way to travel in and around the Turkish coastal resorts is in dolmuses, the local minibus services which can be hailed from the roadside. There are good bus services between the major towns and organised tours to many attractions, though more independent travellers often prefer to rent a car.
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