Travel guide – istanbul

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Overview

The splendid city of Istanbul has many unique and fascinating features. It is the only city in the world reaching across two continents, with its old city in Europe and modern Istanbul situated in Asia, separated by the Bosphorus Strait. It is also unique in having had capital status during two successive empires, Christian Byzantine and Islamic Ottoman, and the legacy from both is visible in the modern city today.

Istanbul's location on the water made it a much coveted site as a commercial shipping port and military lookout, and as capital of the Roman Empire, Constantinople, as it was known, became extremely desirable as a centre of world trade, until Mehmet the Conqueror claimed it for the Ottoman Empire in 1453 and it became the imperial seat of the sultans. After the War of Independence the capital was moved to Ankara, but Istanbul still remains the commercial, historical and cultural heart of Turkey today.

The charm and character of Istanbul lies in its endless variety and jumble of contradictions. Its fascinating history has bequeathed the city a vivid inheritance of Byzantine ruins, splendid palaces, ancient mosques and churches, hamams (bath-houses) and exotic bazaars. Modern Istanbul exudes trendy bars and nightclubs, western boutiques, office blocks, and elegant suburbs. The call to prayer heralds the start of each day and the city comes to life with over 12,000 residents forming a chaotic social and cultural mix of unscrupulous carpet merchants, wealthy shoppers, religiously veiled women and destitute beggars. Joining the noisy throng are over-awed tourists and those capitalising on the tourist trade.

Climate

The Aegean and Mediterranean coasts have very hot and dry summers, and wet, mild winters when the coastal towns more or less shut down between October and April. Winter in Istanbul and Cappadocia can be very cold with a dusting of snow. The peak tourist season is during high summer, roughly between July and September. From June the mosquitoes can be a problem. Spring and autumn are the best times to visit, as the climate is still hot, but not unbearable. Eastern Turkey should be visited during summer as roads and mountain passes may close due to winter ice and snow.

Health

Twenty cases of bird flu have been reported in northern, eastern and central Turkey, but there is no evidence of the virus passing between humans; the four people who died had close contact with poultry. Authorities are taking stringent measures to contain the outbreaks. Visitors are unlikely to be at risk, but are advised to avoid close exposure to caged, domestic or wild birds, and to ensure that poultry and egg dishes are cooked thoroughly. There is a risk of malaria in the south-eastern part of the country, but not in the main tourist areas in the west and south-west of the country, although mosquitoes can still be an irritation in summer. There are no vaccination requirements. Most tap water in the larger towns and cities has been chlorinated, but bottled water is still recommended for drinking. Food from street vendors should be treated with caution. Medical facilities and standard of health care are not high in state hospitals and private health insurance is recommended.

The basics

Getting Around

The best and easiest way to explore the old city is on foot, but to get to other areas there is a cheap public transport network consisting of buses, taxis or dolmuses (shared minibus taxis), tramways and a new metro system that relieves the pressure on Istanbul's endless traffic jams. The rechargeable Akbil electronic transit pass, available from special kiosks, is a discount way of using local buses, trams, metro and ferries. Useful underground Metro lines run from Aksaray to the main city bus station at Esenler and the Ataturk Airport, and another north from Taksim Square passing the Levent districts. Buses are comprehensive, but slow and crowded; dolmuses and private yellow taxis are more comfortable than the city buses and very inexpensive, but it is advisable for foreigners to have their hotel call a private taxi for them and check that the meter is working, as overcharging is common. Dolmuses can be hailed anywhere along their set routes. Passenger ferries are a pleasant way to see the city, and there is also a train network running along the Mamara shore. Driving or hiring a car is not recommended due to traffic congestion and poor driving standards.

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