Travel guide – aegean coast
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Overview
The Aegean Coast possesses some of the most spectacular and significant of Turkey's archaeological sites with a rich cultural legacy from early Greek, Roman and Ottoman civilisations. The ancient cities of Ephesus and Troy are permeated with the past, where amphitheatres, chariot-rutted streets and columns reek of historical importance. It was here that St Paul laid the foundations for the beginnings of Christianity, and where the face of legendary beauty, Helen of Troy, 'launched a thousand ships'.
Besides historical attractions, the Aegean is known for its magnificent coastal scenery and long stretches of sandy beaches, where pine trees and olive groves clad the hills surrounding popular resorts like Bodrum and Kusadasi. Inland, the calcium-rich mineral springs that surge over the edge of a mountain plateau at Pamukkale form Turkey's leading mineral spa and is one of the most celebrated natural attractions in the area. The city of Izmir, once famous for its figs, is today the modern capital of the region, and a major port and busy commercial centre, with good hotels and restaurants.
Like Bodrum and Kusadasi, its neighbours on Turkey's south Aegean Coast, Altinkum is heavily frequented by British holiday package tourists, but unlike these other frenetic resorts Altinkum is small and quiet, making it perfect for families with young children and those seeking a relaxed, easy-going beach holiday. The resort town's main attraction are its three long sandy beaches, that stretch from the small harbour at one end of a gently shelving bay to a rocky cliff at the other end. Little wonder that the name Altinkum means 'golden sands'. In this resort devoted to leisure and pleasure, lazy days on the beach, perhaps indulging in some watersports, are the order of the day, while night time is spent trying out the laid back restaurants and bars, many of them serving up British fare and named for familiar English landmarks. Those with a yen for sightseeing will find Altinkum perfectly placed to visit two major ancient sites, the Temple of Apollo at Didyama and the vast Roman ruins at Ephesus.
The popular resort of Bodrum, called Halicarnassus in ancient times, is the South Aegean's most attractive resort, described by Homer as 'The land of eternal blue'. The hillside is covered in painted villas adorned with bougainvillea. Narrow streets wind their way down to the sea, and the peaceful setting of its twin harbours offer shelter for yachts. Bodrum is a mustering point for local boats offering tailor-made daytrips to nearby islands or the pristine beaches and seaside restaurants along the magnificent coastline. From its position between the two harbours, the 15th-century crusader Castle of St Peter dominates every part of the town, now home to the fascinating Museum of Underwater Archaeology. The other attraction in town is the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, the crumbling remains of one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. As Turkey's leading seaside resort destination, Bodrum is packed with foreign visitors in summer, yet it remains unspoilt and retains its charming Turkish character, perfecting the balance between exotic bazaars, the wailing cry of the muezzin and ancient history, with water sports, sunbathing and a nightlife that is notorious throughout Turkey.
Things to do and see in or around Bodrum
Pamukkale
Calcium-rich mineral springs surging over the edge of a mountain plateau for thousands of years has resulted in an intriguing natural masterpiece. The rock formations of Pamukkale (‘Cotton Castle’) are a series of natural shelves and ridges, terraces that have been turned white from the solidified chalky calcium deposits left behind as the thermal waters tumble into further basins clinging to the cliff edge below. From a distance it appears to be a dazzling white fairytale castle, with a formation of tiers rising from the ground containing warm water pools. The hot springs have been used since Roman times to cure certain ailments. On the plateau is the Pamukkale Thermal enclosing the bubbling ‘sacred pool of the ancients’, the main source of the springs creating the white terraces, and its mineral waters are open for public bathing. Pamukkale is also the site of the ancient Roman spa-city of Hierapolis, and there are several ruins scattered about the area, including an impressive Roman theatre. It was considered a sacred site for its magic healing waters and was the weekend destination of kings and emperors of the Pergamum and Roman Empires.
Telephone: Pamukkale Thermal: (258) 272 2024 ; Open daily. The Pamukkale Thermal is open 8am to 8pm (to 5pm in winter)
Izmir is Turkey's third largest city, a busy port, commercial centre and gateway to the Aegean Coast, but despite its size (population around three million) and importance it still retains enough holiday ambience to draw visitors to linger. Izmir is lively and cosmopolitan, and it is also scenic with palm-lined promenades lining the bay, backed by graceful avenues and attractive horizontal terraces rising up the slopes of the surrounding mountains. Visitors come to see the sights, haggle in the colourful bazaar, and dine on delicious meals at the many waterfront restaurants. Formerly known as Smyrna, Izmir is ancient, dating from around 3,000 BC, but today is thoroughly modern, having been almost obliterated by a fire in 1922 and rebuilt. There is still some worthy sightseeing to be done in the city, however, like the 19th century clock tower, the 18th century Konak Cami mosque, and an archaeology museum. A must-see is the city's landmark public elevator, linking Mithatpasa Street with the summit of the hill at Halil Rifat Pasa, from where there is a stunning view across the city and the bay. The best way to enjoy Izmir is to join the promenaders in the balmy evening air strolling on the esplanade, or jogging along in a horse-drawn carriage, between Konak Meydan and Alsancak.
Kusadasi is one of the most swollen resort towns on the southern Aegean Coast, overflowing with shiploads of tourists in summer who enlarge the year-round population several times over. Once a small fishing village, today the busy town is packed with curios and carpet shops; its proximity to the ruins of Ephesus making it an ideal base for Aegean cruise ships. Despite the frenzied tourism, Kusadasi is situated amid splendid coastal scenery and several significant archaeological sites, including the three well-preserved Ionian settlements of Miletus, Priene and Didyma. There are plenty of good hotels and restaurants, and ferries link it with the nearby Greek islands of Samos and Mykonos.
Things to do and see in or around Kusadasi
Ephesus
Ephesus is the biggest and best-preserved ancient city in the country and is one of the world’s spectacular historical sites. The city was established with a harbour on the mouth of the Cayster River, and in the 2nd century BC it became the most important port and commercial trading centre in Anatolia, from Alexander the Great and the Hellenistic period to capital of Roman Asia under Augustus in 133 BC. The city went into final decline during the Byzantine era with the silting up of the harbour and by 527 AD it was deserted. The city is also important as the early seat of Christianity, visited by St Paul, whose letters to the Ephesians are recorded in the New Testament. The site needs little imagination to see what a functioning Roman city would have looked like, but guides are available and can offer a rich insight into the history and architecture of the ruins. Among the amphitheatres, murals and mosaics, baths, fountains, brothels and columns, the chariot-worn streets lead to some of the highlights, including the enormous Library of Celsus, the impressive Temple of Hadrian, a row of public latrines and the Grand Theatre where Paul preached to the Ephesians. The city was originally dedicated to the goddess Artemis and her once-magnificent temple was considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
Telephone: (232) 892 6402 or 892 6940 ; Daily 8am to 6.30pm
Climate
Both the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts have a typical Mediterranean climate with mild winters and hot summers, with temperature often rising above 30ºC (86ºF) in July and August. Showers are unlikely in the summer months, but the rainfall is quite high in winter.
Health
Twenty cases of bird flu have been reported in northern, eastern and central Turkey, but there is no evidence of the virus passing between humans; the four people who died had close contact with poultry. Authorities are taking stringent measures to contain the outbreaks. Visitors are unlikely to be at risk, but are advised to avoid close exposure to caged, domestic or wild birds, and to ensure that poultry and egg dishes are cooked thoroughly. There is a risk of malaria in the south-eastern part of the country, but not in the main tourist areas in the west and south-west of the country, although mosquitoes can still be an irritation in summer. There are no vaccination requirements. Most tap water in the larger towns and cities has been chlorinated, but bottled water is still recommended for drinking. Food from street vendors should be treated with caution. Medical facilities and standard of health care are not high in state hospitals and private health insurance is recommended.
The basics
Getting Around
The best way to travel in and around the Turkish coastal resorts is in dolmuses, the local minibus services which can be hailed from the roadside. There are good bus services between the major towns and organised tours to many attractions, though more independent travellers often prefer to rent a car.
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