Travel guide – the east coast
Go back to travel guide home
Overview
The burgeoning of Tunisia's holiday resorts is a consequence of European sun-seekers having tired of the crowded beaches on the northern Mediterranean coast and islands. Just two and a half hours' flying time from the UK, holidaymakers have discovered that Tunisia, the little north African country with a big heart, is blessed with a stunning coastline where wide sandy beaches are gently lapped by the Mediterranean. To add to the charm the country also boasts the mysterious and magical Sahara desert, an abundance of historical sites, intriguing cuisine, and a modern infrastructure providing all the comforts of home and then some.
Tunisia's "Riviera" extends for about 800 miles (1,287km) south of the capital, Tunis, and boasts a plethora of luxury resort towns the most notable of which are Hammamet, Port El Kantaoui, Sousse and Monastri (Skanes). The strip is bursting with attractive hotels and apartment blocks, and is fast becoming known as one of the best value destinations in the Mediterranean.
On the coastal motorway sandwiched between the Mediterranean and the Sahara desert, 40 miles (64km) south of Tunis, lies the pride of the 'Tunisian Riviera': the sophisticated resort town of Hammamet with its perfect sweep of beach, ancient and exciting medina, healing mineral baths and renowned top class modern hotels. Once a sleepy fishing village, Hammamet (the name comes from the Arabic al-hammamat, meaning 'the baths') was awakened to its tourist potential back in the 1920s when a flock of wealthy and arty Americans and Europeans decided to make the beautiful bay their playground. Today it has become a destination mainly for middle-to-upper range package tours from Europe, the streets abuzz with scantily clad holidaymakers speaking Swedish, German, English and French. Despite its modern architectural and human incursions, Hammamet retains its sense of exotic history, dominated by its 15th-century medina and souk (bazaar), where donkeys and bargain-hunters navigate the labyrinth of Aladdin's caves packed with treasures like carpets, brass ornaments, jewellery, traditional kaftans, pottery and leather goods. The narrow winding alleys also conceal bright, whitewashed windowless houses behind splendid ornate doors. The town's baths, famed since Roman times, are also situated in the crowded medina, alongside ancient mosques and over-shadowed by the medieval castle or kasbah. The big attraction of this seaside town, though, is its six-mile (10km) stretch of palm-fringed shore, boasting beautiful sandy clean beaches, decorated with colourful fishing boats. South of the old town, along the beach, a plethora of attractive Moorish style low-rise resort hotels, set in stunning lush gardens, has mushroomed, offering visitors luxury accommodations, watersports, entertainment, gourmet restaurants and all the trappings of a perfect holiday.
One could be forgiven for imagining that the quaint blue and white village of Port El Kantaoui had been built as a Hollywood stage set and simply uprooted and plonked down on the Tunisian coast, flanked by two long stretches of perfect clean sandy beaches. In fact, this is not far from the truth: El Kantaoui is a chic, purpose-built resort, which owes nothing to history, but everything to catering for the up-market tourist, seeking leisurely luxury in an enchanting setting. The El Kantaoui complex is built around a modern marina, which can accommodate more than 300 vessels, most of them moored by millionaires. Its complex of hotels centres on the cobblestone streets of the perfect reproduction of a typical medieval medina, abuzz during the day with souvenir hunters. In the evening the action switches to the bars and cafes opposite the marina. The entire town has been termed a 'tourist ghetto', but it is indeed a delightful and highly successful one, enhanced by its Mediterranean location and Moorish flavour.
The resort of Skanes, with its beautiful and seemingly endless sandy beach, is a suburb of the Tunisian Mediterranean port town of Monastir, particularly popular with British holidaymakers. Monastir has happily given itself up totally as a tourist Mecca, centred on a modern marina and a revamped Medina crammed with souvenir shops and restaurants. Even its ancient Ribat (fort) has been rebuilt and glamorised by being used as the setting for several movies like Monty Python’s Life of Brian, as well as Raiders of the Lost Ark and a TV series about Jesus of Nazareth. The modern gilt on Monastir may be a little false, but underneath this historic city retains its ancient air of having been Tunisia’s holiest place, and an important strategic stronghold that was even once used as a base by Julius Caesar. Just a few miles from the centre of Monastir lies the extravagant stretch of grand hotels that have been built along the coast in the area known as Skanes. These magnificent architectural delights are set in acres of lush gardens, most of them encompassing their own patch of well-maintained sandy beach. The Skanes hotels are well connected to Monastir and other nearby resort towns, like Sousse, by a tourist road train and a plethora of cheap taxis. Monastir also has the advantage of having its own international airport. Parasols mushroom on the beaches in between watersports equipment stands and local vendors parading with a variety of wares, particularly pottery.
The captivating resort town of Sousse lies on Tunisia’s east coast, about two hours drive south of the capital, Tunis. From the 9th century onwards the Phoenicians, Byzantines, Arabs and Romans discovered the delights of this fertile spot, dubbed ‘the pearl of the Sahel’ in ancient times, and today the mild climate, beautiful Mediterranean shoreline and warm people work their magic on holidaymakers from Europe. Sousse is also favoured by Tunisians themselves as a get-away destination, and the friendly natives enjoy mingling with the visitors on the sandy beaches and busy promenade. The proliferation of modern resort hotels along the beachfront has not detracted from the charms of the inner city, and Sousse is still regarded as having probably the finest (though not the largest) old city, or Medina, in Tunisia. A warren of narrow covered alleyways nestling below the Ribat, or fort, hide hundreds of colourful shops selling a myriad of local goods from carpets and porcelain to leather bags and olive oil. Outside the Medina there is also a vast modern shopping complex. Sousse is not all just shopping and beach bathing, however. The town’s museum, situated in the old castle or kasbah, is renowned for its collection of mosaics, masks, statues and other relics of the Roman occupation. There are also several miles of well-preserved ancient Christian catacombs and marble tombs in the town. Sousse offers its many package-tour visitors all the facilities and surroundings of a relaxing seaside holiday, overlaid with the undeniably foreign and exotic atmosphere of North Africa, all at extremely affordable prices.
Climate
Tunisia is a land of constant sunshine and warm water. The height of summer is a little too hot for most tastes, so July and August are regarded as 'off-season'. Between October and May is a more comfortable time to visit, with temperatures ranging between 54°F and 82°F (12°C and 28°C). Springtime (March to May) brings displays of wild flowers throughout the countryside.
Health
No vaccinations are required for entry to Tunisia and no serious health risks exist. Travellers' diarrhoea and other parasitic infections may be contracted, but is unlikely in the modern seaside resorts. Visitors travelling outside these resorts should ensure they drink only boiled, purified water and eat well-cooked food. All medical costs must be paid for immediately after treatment in Tunisia, and costs can be quite high. The availability of medication is limited. Visitors should bring adequate supplies of their own medication. Health insurance is a necessity.
top of page