Travel guide – transylvania
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Overview
Transylvania is the most famous part of Romania, thanks to the legend of Dracula, conjuring up images of haunted forests and werewolves, medieval towns, vampires, dramatic mountains and turreted cliff-top castles.
The character of Dracula is based on a historical medieval prince, Vlad Tepes who led the Romanian resistance against the Turks. He was known as ‘Vlad the Impaler’ because of his gruesome habit of impaling his victims on stakes and displaying them publicly for his enemies to see. When his father was knighted into the Order of the Dragon (dragon is ‘dracul’ in Romanian) he became known as the ‘son of the dragon’, Vlad Dracul.
But Transylvania s not just about Dracula. It has splendid mountain scenery and alpine peaks, some of the country’s best hiking and skiing, rural villages and a way of life that remains almost as it was in the 18th century. Historic towns are scattered throughout the region, with their stone medieval streets, defensive towers and fortified churches. The charming town of Sighisoara is the most striking introduction to Transylvania, the birthplace of ‘Dracula’, along with the impressive castles and churches of Brasov and Sinaia, and the dramatic castle at Bran, also known as Dracula’s Castle, that looks every bit a vampire’s lair with its soaring turrets and dramatic setting.
The populace is a mixture of different characters and customs that have been shaped by years of colonisation and the coming and going of different groups, and includes Romanians, Gypsies, Hungarians and Germans. Despite the creeping effects of modernisation into the large towns, visitors to this region will be rewarded by its medieval charm and the traditional character of the people. Endearing images will linger, and memories of horse-drawn carts (piled high with cabbages), driven by old couples with scarf-covered heads and rough hands; lively food markets, quaint cobbled streets, and hilly pastures nestled among the Carpathian Mountains will be the lasting impressions left by the charm of Transylvania.
Nestled at the foot of Mount Tâmpa, Brasov is a charming medieval town, and along with Sighisoara is one of the seven fortified towns settled by the Saxons, with a distinct Germanic flavour to its architecture. The Saxons built massive stone walls and seven bastions around the city that are still visible today, as well as ornate churches, elaborately trimmed buildings and a fine central square that is said to be the spot from where the legendary Pied Piper was to have led the children of Hamlin. Lining the square are the red-roofed merchant’s houses, now occupied by cafes and shops, and in the centre is the 15th-century Old Town Hall that is home to the History Museum. The town’s landmark is the impressive Gothic structure known as the Black Church, so named because its outer walls were blackened by a fire in 1689. The interior is beautiful, with balconies, stained glass windows, an enormous organ, stone columns and walls adorned with fabulous Turkish carpets. Many people use Brasov as a base for visiting the nearby attractions of Dracula’s Castle at Bran, as well as Râsnov Castle and the ski resorts of Sinaia and Poiana Brasov.
Things to do and see in or around Brasov
Bran Castle
The fortified medieval Bran Castle is often referred to as Dracula’s Castle, looking as a vampire count’s abode should look with a forbidding façade, towers and ramparts rising out of the forest, and perched high on a steep cliff face against a dramatic mountain background; however there is little evidence to suggest Vlad Tepes ever stayed there. Bran Castle was built in 1377 to protect nearby Brasov from invaders, and it later became the favourite summer residence of Queen Marie, offered to her by the people of Brasov who owned it. The rooms and towers surround an inner courtyard with a sculpted stone fountain. A warren of narrow, winding stairs, secret chambers and underground passageways lead between vaulted halls, a prison, watchtowers with sweeping views, and the living area. The rooms are decorated with a collection of Baroque furniture, elaborately carved four-poster beds, weapons and armour dating from the 14th to 19th centuries. On the grounds below is an open-air ethnographic Village Museum consisting of old local-style architecture with household objects, costumes and furniture on display. At the entrance to the castle grounds is a large handicraft market that aims to distract the bus loads of tourists.
Telephone: (0)268 238 333 ; Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 5pm and until 4pm from October to April
Sighisoara is one of the seven fortified towns founded by the Saxons in the hills of Transylvania, and is a beautifully preserved medieval town that is renowned as the birthplace of ‘Dracula’, or Vlad The Impaler. The hilltop citadel dominates the town with the original medieval settlement enclosed within the fortress walls, surrounded by nine surviving towers. Within the old town, the narrow cobbled streets and steep alleyways, brightly-painted tiny lopsided houses, ancient churches, stone archways and covered stairways are overlooked by the striking Clock Tower, the control tower of the main gate with magnificent views over the whole town and countryside. At the foot of the Clock Tower is the simple yellow building where Vlad was born and lived with his father, Vlad Dracul, and is marked by a hanging wrought-iron dragon. It now houses a restaurant with medieval furnishings. The ancient cobblestone street that passes beneath the Clock Tower leads to the lower town, and although shabbier than the citadel, it has some interesting little shops where ‘Vampire Wine’ and locally made products can be bought. There are also lively markets here and pretty stone squares where townsfolk gather to chat animatedly about daily affairs.
Known as the ‘Pearl of the Carpathians’ for its beautiful mountain scenery, the winter ski resort of Sinaia is nestled in the Prahova valley surrounded by the snow-covered peaks of the Bucegi Mountains. It is also the setting for Peles Castle, a beautiful creation in the German-Renaissance style and considered to be one of the finest castles in Europe. With the construction of the castle as a summer residence for King Carol I, the little hamlet became an exclusive aristocratic resort and today is filled with holidaymakers who come to walk or ski in the mountains. The 17th century monastery with its original frescoes, and the small Pelisor Palace are its other attractions.
Things to do and see in or around Sinaia
Peles Castle
Considered to be one of the most beautiful castles in Europe, Peles Castle was the summer residence for Romania’s kings. Built by King Carol I in 1883 the castle is a masterpiece of German-Renaissance architecture with an exquisite exterior, and is surrounded by fir forests and the towering peaks of the Carpathian range. Its 160 rooms are magnificent; lavishly decorated in ebony, mother of pearl, walnut and leather with crystal chandeliers, fine collections of sculptures, paintings and tapestries, stained glass windows and furniture. It is set within a large park with a statue garden in front. Further up the hill from the main palace is the smaller Pelisor Palace, built for Carol I’s son and decorated in the Art Nouveau style.
Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 4pm (June to September). From October to May the castle is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, and for the whole month of November
Climate
Romania has a temperate climate with four distinct seasons. Spring and autumn are cool and pleasant, making May and June, and September and October the best months to visit. Summers are hot from July to August and winters are harsh and very cold between December and March, with snow falling throughout most of the country. Spring and summer are the wettest seasons, but rain can be expected throughout the year.
Health
Medical facilities in Bucharest are good, but poor in the smaller towns and basic medical supplies are often in short supply. A reciprocal health agreement exists between the UK, USA, Canada and Australia that entitles nationals to free emergency medical care, but health insurance is strongly advised. There have been a number of Hepatitis A cases in Romania and visitors are advised to seek medical advice about inoculations before travelling. Visitors should drink only bottled water. Stray dogs carry rabies and tick-borne African Typhus disease, and should be avoided. In October 2005, cases of Avian bird flu were reported in a poultry farm in the Danube Delta, but no human cases have been reported. The risk for travellers is very low, but visitors should avoid any contact with domestic, caged or wild birds and ensure that eggs and poultry dishes are well cooked.
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