Travel guide – the azores
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Overview
The remoteness of the archipelago of the Azores in the North Atlantic has saved the nine beautiful green islands, which belong to Portugal, from becoming overdeveloped. International flights do make their way to the Azores, which lie 907 miles (1,460km) from the coast of Europe, but as yet tourism has not spoilt the traditional way of life of the islanders or marred the magnificent natural attractions. Those who visit soon manage to drop the words 'stress' and 'pollution' from their vocabulary, and give in totally to enjoying the islands' year round subtropical climate with mild temperatures and high humidity. The only concern that might arise is the odd earth tremor: the islands are rather geologically unstable and pitted with volcanoes and hot sulphur springs. The 250,000 inhabitants seem unperturbed by this, however, and go about their daily rounds much as their forefathers did hundreds of years before. The daily business is generally agricultural labour. The Azores is characterised by large tracts of vineyards and farmland, sprinkled with little settlements of whitewashed houses. The gently sloping hillsides are carpeted with vineyards and fruit orchards. The coast of the islands is, in the main, rather rugged, but there are bays and inlets with odd stretches of white sand for swimming and sunbathing. Island hopping is simple to achieve because all the islands are connected by ferry and local air services.
This is the island of the Azores most recommended by travel agents, because of its central position in the archipelago. Its coast is indented with sheltered bays and it has an immense volcanic crater that is carpeted with greenery, providing breathtaking views. The island's main town, Horta, has a large marina that is a favoured stopping point for yachtsmen, and the harbour also occasionally accommodates cruise liners. Of interest to sightseers is the new section of land, covering an area of approximately one mile (two km), added to the island in the most recent volcanic eruption of 1957.
The island of Flores, most northerly of the Azores group and sited somewhat remote from it's companions, is literally the island of 'flowers', carpeted with numerous wildflowers and hydrangea clusters among impossibly green hills and whitewashed villages. Main features of the island are the seven serene lakes in volcanic craters and the Enxareus Grotto, a huge volcanic cave. The main town, Lajes, is a picturesque fishing port set in green fields. All the towns and villages have their historic chapels and churches to be admired, and Flores also features watermills and windmills, and an ethnographic museum in the town of Santa Cruz which displays objects relating to the activities of the island population: fishing, whaling and praying. Near the village of Fajazinha is the stunning Ribeira Grande waterfall with a massive 984ft (300m) drop.
Vineyards cover much of Graciosa, just like the other Azores islands, but this tiny landmass has its own unique natural attraction as well: the Furna de Enxofre. This is a small, warm sulphur lake, concealed in a grotto underneath a volcanic crater. Visitors can reach the lake via a 270ft (80m) spiral staircase enclosed in a brick tower.
The island of Pico is dominated by its volcano of the same name, rearing in the middle of the landscape and towering 7,720ft (2,351m) above sea level, making it the highest peak in Portugal. The island is encircled by a single road, following the rugged coastline. It is possible to climb the volcano to the peak but the climb is arduous and should not be attempted by amateurs. Pico's main claim to fame is as a jumping-off point for whale-watching expeditions, offered by local boatmen. In the island's vineyards the famous 'verdehlo' wine grapes are grown. In the town of Lajes there is a whale-hunting museum, and at Sao Roche is a museum depicting the operation of a whaling factory.
The island of Santa Maria lies southwest of Sao Miguel, and features an airport that was a World War II American airforce base; it has now been appropriated as a civil airport. The main town on the island is Vila do Porto, which has only one hotel but several inns and private villas for rent. There are a few sandy beaches on the island, which offer some good scenery and walking opportunities.
Say 'cheese' when visiting Sao Jorge, the island surrounded by sheer, black cliffs, because this is the centre of the Azores' dairy industry. The lush green grass of the island's fields plumps up the grazing cows, who in turn produce rich milk that is turned into creamy, straw-coloured wheels of cheese, weighing about 22 pounds (10kg). The cheeses are cured for several months in temperature-controlled rooms, acquiring a honey-coloured rind and piquant flavour. Not only is Sao Jorge renowned for its cheeses, but the island also has exclusive rights to the delicious fleshy cockles that are caught in the waters of its lake called Caldeira de Santo Cristo.
Sao Miguel, largest in the Azores group, is scenically spectacular with green pastures and forest-covered volcanic peaks. The island may be the largest, but it is still very small - just 40 miles (64km) long and 7.5 miles (12km) wide. Its most alluring attraction is Sete Cidades, a 15 square mile (40 sq-km) volcanic crater containing two lakes, one deep blue, and the other emerald green. The town of Ponta Delgada on the island is the largest in the archipelago, and features an historic centre with pretty whitewashed houses dating from the 17th and 18th centuries. There are numerous low-key accommodation establishments and good restaurants. The island also features a tropical garden at Terra Nostra Park, where it is possible to bathe in therapeutic spring water, as well as the only tea plantation in Europe, sited at Gorreana. The island is famed for its delicious pineapples and intricate embroidery.
This island in the Azores holds the most interest for tourists, with the historic centre of its capital town, Angra do Heroismo, having been classified as a Unesco World Heritage Site, this despite many of its architectural treasures having been destroyed in an earthquake in 1980. The town is still picturesque and renowned for its pastel-coloured sunset vistas. Terceira is known for its periodic ‘running of the bulls’, with a roped animal being let loose in the narrow streets of a town or village to be subdued by local youths (ask in the local bar when the next event is likely to take place). The other main town on the island, Praia da Vitoria, is interesting because of its American flavour. Being close to the American air base in Lajes, it features several burger joints and US-style souvenir shops.
Climate
Summers are hot and dry throughout Portugal, particularly in the Algarve, which experiences very little rain. However refreshing sea breezes make for pleasant conditions. Winters are cold and wet, particularly in the northern and west coast regions. Spring and autumn are good times to visit with cheaper rates at hotels and less crowded beaches, restaurants and golf courses.
Health
There are no health risks attached to travel to Portugal. A yellow fever vaccination certificate is necessary for entry for anyone travelling from an infected area and destined for the Azores or Madeira. Health facilities are good and reciprocal health agreements exist with most European countries, including the UK, whose citizens receive free emergency care at state hospitals. Dental care and repatriation costs are not covered under this agreement. Medical insurance is therefore advised.
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