Travel guide – the algarve
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Overview
The southern Portuguese province of the Algarve, divided from the rest of the country by a series of low-lying mountains, is one of Europe’s most popular coastal holiday destinations, catering for millions of tourists every year. The region’s capital, Faro, is built around a charming harbour beside a wide lagoon. An international airport was opened near Faro in 1965 to cater for the incoming tourists, making the city the hub of the resort trade.
Most of the Algarve’s trendy, modern holiday resorts were formerly little fishing villages. They still feature central areas with narrow streets, whitewashed houses and ancient churches, but it is the region’s long sandy beaches, which have ensured its place as a holiday Mecca. The coastline stretches 100 miles (161km) from Cape St. Vincent to Vila Real de Santo Antonio on the border with Spain, and much of it today is built up with high-rise hotels and holiday apartment blocks, particularly the area to the west of Faro.
A special feature of the Algarve is the myriad almond trees that are found throughout the region; in late January and early February the countryside is blanketed with white almond blossom. There are also groves of lemons, oranges, carobs, pomegranates and figs growing inland in what is known as the ‘garden of Portugal’. Also characteristic of the province are swathes of green golf courses, associated with real estate developments and major resorts, which have proliferated since the tourist boom began in the early 1960s.
A busy trading port in ancient times, Albufeira declined into a poor fishing town in the 18th century, having been swamped by tidal waves and burnt out by civil war. But since the 1960s the tide has turned again and this central Algarve enclave is once more awash with prosperity, thanks to a tourist boom. Albufeira, Portugal's most popular resort, has been described as a stretch of 'holiday-land suburbia', spreading from the old town both east and west along the coast, its sandy coves and golden beaches drawing an assorted crowd from retired couples to wild teens, and plenty of families with young children. Satellite resort developments provide every imaginable type and grade of accommodation. Everyone finds something to enjoy in this sprawling, low-rise holiday Mecca, which retains its old world charm in narrow alleyways behind the new hip and happening "Strip". The Strip, to the east of town, runs from the Montechoro Hotel down to the Praia da Oura, lined with dozens of cafes, restaurants and bars that keep pumping from breakfast time to the small hours. On the long stretch of beach below the central square, accessed through a tunnel, craggy fishermen mend their nets unperturbed by the languishing topless sunbathers around them. While the chief attraction of Albufeira is its 23 or so enchanting beaches, most protected by ochre-tinted cliffs, there are some interesting sightseeing possibilities too, like the new Virtual Archaeological Museum, the Municipal Art Gallery and a small museum showcasing Ming ceramics. Those who venture inland will find a tranquil green countryside to explore, redolent with almond, fig, orange and pine trees, where little villages stand timelessly in the sun.
The provincial capital of the Algarve, Faro is a modern, lively city with attractive shopping precincts, good restaurants and a frenetic nightlife. Thousands of travellers pass through the city en route to and from the resorts of the Algarve. Those who choose to linger awhile will find a town full of charm and colour with an interesting history and the feel of a true Portuguese fishing port. There are some sightseeing opportunities, mostly centred in the Old Town or Cidade Velha, which is entered through an 18th century gate and enclosed by the remnants of medieval walls. Faro's most famous attraction is a macabre one at the Igreja do Carmo, which features a chapel whose walls are decorated with the bones of more than 1,200 monks disinterred from the neighbouring cemetery. Another worthwhile attraction near the city is the Ria Formosa Natural Park, and a short distance to the north is the peaceful village of Estoi, boasting a pink Roccoco palace and Roman ruins dating from the 1st century. For the beach, one has to travel a few miles. A long sandy spit lies across a bridge near the International Airport.
This ancient port city is today one of the most popular holiday destinations on the Algarve, sited as it is within walking distance of some excellent beaches. Visitors to Lagos can also take time to discover some of the town's history, which goes back to the Carthaginians several centuries BC. During the great Portuguese age of discovery under Henry the Navigator, the port became a caravel shipyard and was the jumping-off point for many a voyage to the East. Few historic buildings remain, apart from some ruins in the old section of town, because of the devastating earthquake of 1755. Much of the central town area today consists of a sprawling flea market. Also to be seen is Customs House - within its arches Europe's first slave market was conducted in 1441. There is also the beautiful church of Igreja de Santo Antonio, restored in 1715 and decorated with fantasy-inspired carvings. The municipal museum in the town houses an interesting and varied collection from Roman artefacts to deformed animal foetuses. The most splendid beach is Meia Praia to the east of town; the southern promontory features some sheltered cove beaches; while Praia de Dona Ana is picturesque but usually very crowded in summer.
Tavira, to the east of Faro in the south-east corner of Portugal, is one of the most photogenic towns along the Algarve coast, sporting white-washed houses topped with decorative chimneys and pyramid shaped Roman-tiled roofs, set among orange, fig and almond trees. The charming town, on the Gilao River, dates back to around 2,000 BC, and also boasts a Moorish Castle, with some splendid views from the ramparts. Then too there are some attractive churches (37 of them to be exact), including the Church of the Misericordia with a beautiful Renaissance door and carved high altar. Not many of the buildings pre-date the devastating earthquake of 1755, which destroyed much of the Algarve, but the town was painstakingly rebuilt with many fine 18th-century buildings. Tavira flanks both banks of the river, which are linked by a Roman bridge. Along the coast and on an island opposite the town (reached by ferry) are some beautiful isolated sandy beaches.
This unusual town, 53 miles (85km) east of Faro, is neatly designed on a geometric grid system, radiating out from the central square, the Praca Marques de Pombal, with its dramatic paved radial mosaic floor, edged with orange trees. The town is on the west bank of the River Guardiana, facing Ayamonte, Spain, which is on the east bank. Back in the 17th century the original town was inundated by the sea, and was rebuilt by the Marques de Pombal, who had rebuilt Lisbon after the 1755 earthquake. The reconstruction was completed in just five months, leaving a tidy town with streets lined by elegant 18th century townhouses and a long esplanade along the riverbank where strollers can enjoy an impressive view across to neighbouring Spain. A car ferry connects to Spain.
Vilamoura, an ambitious purpose-built resort on the central Algarve coast, is one of Europe's largest privately developed tourist havens, offering holidaymakers every form of sport, entertainment and amenity imaginable. The resort is built around a magnificent 1000-berth marina, alongside which are preserved some Roman ruins that were unearthed during construction back in the 1960s. The southern border is lined by a long, sandy beach, overlooked by quality hotels, self-catering apartments, numerous restaurants and shops, and a host of leisure facilities including a casino. Further inland villas nestle in lush gardens between the golf courses. Vilamoura, which means 'Village of the Moors', is designed for pure pleasure for everyone, of any age or orientation. Nature has enhanced the resort with a temperate sunny climate and beautifully landscaped surroundings. Development has been environmentally friendly and tasteful.
Climate
The climate in the Algarve region of Portugal is mild, with little rainfall and plenty of sun throughout the year, making it an ideal year-round destination. Summers are hot and sunny, but are often refreshed by cooling breezes off the coast; the farther west you go, the windier it becomes. July and August are the hottest months of the year, and can be fairly unbearable inland. The weather in the autumn and winter months is mild, and visitors will need warm clothing in the evening. January is the coolest month of the year. The Algarve gets most of its rainfall over the winter months; rain is rare between June and September. The Atlantic Ocean is cold but becomes gradually slightly warmer to the east, thanks to the influence of the Mediterranean.
Health
There are no health risks attached to travel to Portugal. A yellow fever vaccination certificate is necessary for entry for anyone travelling from an infected area and destined for the Azores or Madeira. Health facilities are good and reciprocal health agreements exist with most European countries, including the UK, whose citizens receive free emergency care at state hospitals. Dental care and repatriation costs are not covered under this agreement. Medical insurance is therefore advised.
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