Travel guide – oporto
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Overview
Bridges and port wine are what characterises Oporto, Portugal's gracious northern capital and second largest city after Lisbon. Oporto sits astride a great gorge at the point where the River Douro enters the Atlantic, and although it is mainly industrial, the city centre has plenty of charm with some art treasures, medieval cathedrals and museums, along narrow streets sporting wrought-iron balconies and bright splashes of potted geraniums.
The main reason tourists visit Oporto is to sample its legendary port wine, processed, blended and aged in the various lodges of the Vila Nova da Gaia district across the river from the city, via the spectacular two-tiered Dom Luis bridge. Visitors can tour the lodges and finish up with a tasting session. The city also has an historic riverside district called Ribeira, which is undergoing restoration and has been classified as a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Within easy reach of Oporto there are numerous coastal resorts and fishing villages on the Atlantic coastline, well known for their seafood restaurants. It is possible to cruise down the River Douro to take in the scenic splendour of the area.
In the remote northeast Portuguese province of Tras-os-Montes lies traditional farming country where rural communities provide a getaway destination for those who enjoy exploring off the beaten track. The small provincial capital, Braganca, lies close to the Spanish border and is slowly being discovered by tourists, mostly because of its fine local museum and the small medieval village and castle on a hillock overlooking the town. The interesting feature of the castle is the pillar beside it that rises from the back of a carved granite pig ('Porca'), which is believed to be a fertility idol from prehistoric times. Between the medieval citadel and the cathedral is the garden of the Museum do Abade de Bacal, containing not only tombstones but also numerous representations of the 'porca' idol. The museum itself houses a collection of sacred art and watercolours painted by Alberto Souza. In the medieval citadel is the Domus Municipalis, a pentagonal 12th century civic building which is unique in Europe.
The central Beiras region of Portugal is dominated by its provincial capital, Coimbra, situated about 73 miles (118km) south of Oporto. Coimbra is one of Europe's oldest university towns, and its students swarm the streets in traditional black capes, with coloured ribbons affixed to indicate which faculty they belong to. The majestic university building, founded in the 12th century, overlooks the city, which is a medieval wonderland of cobbled alleys, archways and stairways. Coimbra was the birthplace of six of Portugal's kings and the country's first king, Afonso Henriques, lies in a carved Gothic sarcophagus in the Monastery of Santa Cruz. Other sights in and around Coimbra include several beautiful medieval churches, the Machado de Castro museum (one of Portugal's finest), and Conimbriga, southwest of the city, which is a fascinating Roman archaeological site.
Portugal's northwestern coast is known as the Costa Verde, and offers some scenic beaches, albeit with cold Atlantic waters which make it less popular than the southerly Algarve. The main centre on this coast is the fish-canning area turned resort town of Espinho, 11 miles (18km) south of Porto, with a long stretch of golden sandy beach, a casino, bullfight ring, a range of shops, restaurants, hotels and campsites. The town also boasts one of the oldest golf courses in the world, dating from 1890.
This historic town is regarded as the birthplace of Portugal, because it was here in 1128 that Afonso Henriques became the first king of the country, which was still largely under Moorish control. The town has many medieval buildings and fortifications, and has been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. One of the main attractions is the tiny Romanesque church where Afonso was allegedly baptised, and the imposing Palace of the first Duke of Braganza, built in the style of a French chateau. There are numerous other Gothic, Romanesque and Baroque delights to discover in walking around the town. There are also two excellent museums: The Museu Alberto Sampaio, south of the castle, contains religious art and relics and is housed in a monastery, while the Museu Arquelogico Martins Sarmento displays the finds from a nearby Celtic hill settlement.
A small town at the mouth of the River Ave, 17 miles (27km) north of Porto, Vila do Conde has become a popular summer holiday resort because of its sandy beaches and rocky reefs. The town has some entertaining local industries, mainly hand-hewn boat building, lace-making, hand-knitting and sweet making. Visitors are welcome at the Rendas lace-making school, where fine examples of the local lace can be purchased.
Climate
Summers are hot and dry throughout Portugal, particularly in the Algarve, which experiences very little rain. However refreshing sea breezes make for pleasant conditions. Winters are cold and wet, particularly in the northern and west coast regions. Spring and autumn are good times to visit with cheaper rates at hotels and less crowded beaches, restaurants and golf courses.
Health
There are no health risks attached to travel to Portugal. A yellow fever vaccination certificate is necessary for entry for anyone travelling from an infected area and destined for the Azores or Madeira. Health facilities are good and reciprocal health agreements exist with most European countries, including the UK, whose citizens receive free emergency care at state hospitals. Dental care and repatriation costs are not covered under this agreement. Medical insurance is therefore advised.
The basics
Getting Around
Oporto has a comprehensive bus network, and a limited underground Metro which serves mostly the outer suburbs. Taxis are plentiful and cheap.
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