Travel guide – vientiane
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Overview
Life in Vientiane, modest capital of Laos, flows along as languidly as does the Mekong River on the banks of which the city is situated. Resembling more a sprawling series of villages than an inter-connected urban metropolis, Vientiane is a sleepy place dotted with a mix of Laotian temples and French colonial buildings, most of them crumbling into decay. Paddy fields still dot the outlying suburbs and even intrude into the city centre in places. Downtown is characterised by narrow lanes that run off the main streets, where bakeries sell croissants alongside vendors touting noodle soup and sticky rice.
Most of the city’s places of interest are concentrated in a small area in the commercial district, easy to explore on foot, between the bamboo and thatched beer gardens on the river bank and Talaat Sao, the morning market. There are some fine Wats (temples) to visit, like Wat Si Saket, one of the city’s oldest, surrounded by a lush tranquil garden. Other grand buildings are the unfinished Patuxai monument, resembling the Arc de Triomphe, and the new Chinese-financed cultural centre. The Lao Revolutionary Museum is worth a visit simply because it is a now rare example of a communist propaganda collection, while the Kaysone Phomvihane Museum is dedicated to Laos’ post-war leader.
The small, laid back town of Vang Vieng is spectacularly situated on a bend of the Nam Song river, surrounded by green agricultural fields, friendly Hmong and Yao ethnic minority villages and mountains that hold fascinating limestone caves. The caves are the main attraction and several guesthouses organise guides to explore them, some combining caving with a meal in a local village, and a float down the river on huge tractor tubes. It is also possible to hire bicycles to explore the area and surrounding villages. The cave of Tham Phou Kham, set in the limestone cliff, contains a bronze Buddha inside the main cavern. To get there is part of the enjoyment, with river crossings on precarious bamboo footbridges, past rural villages and between shimmering rice fields, surrounded by exquisite scenery of fresh and vivid colours. The cave of Tham Pha Thao is for the more adventurous and involves wading through a deep subterranean stream past enormous stalactites and stalagmites. Vang Vieng is an ideal stop off point on the Vientiane-Luang Prabang route, combining shy but friendly people, a beautiful rural setting and enjoyable activities.
Climate
Laos has a tropical climate. The rainy season runs between July and October, when high humidity can also be expected.
Health
Those planning to travel to Laos should seek medical advice about vaccinations and endemic diseases at least three weeks prior to departure. Malaria exists throughout the country except in Vientiane, and typhoid and cholera occur in some areas. Other risks include HIV/AIDS, hepatitis A, B and E and dengue fever. Travellers' diarrhoea is a problem for many visitors; only drink bottled water and avoid dairy products, uncooked meat and fish, salads and unpeeled fruit. Medical care in Vientiane is extremely basic and outside the capital there are no reliable facilities to deal with medical emergencies. Medical evacuation is difficult to organise and very expensive. Travellers are advised to take out comprehensive medical insurance, and those who have an unstable medical condition should consider not travelling to Laos. A yellow fever certificate is required by all entering from an infected area. Although no human cases have been reported, there was an outbreak of bird flu in poultry in 2004, and visitors should avoid contact with domestic, caged and wild birds and ensure that poultry and egg dishes are well cooked; the risk is very low for travellers.
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