Travel guide – south and west
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Overview
Nine counties comprise the South of Ireland, five in the southeast and four in the southwest. In the Southeast, County Wexford is favoured for its sandy beaches and pretty harbour towns; County Carlow for its Celtic monuments and historic sites; County Waterford for its crystal glass factory and attractive fishing villages and resort towns; County Kilkenny for its medieval churches and well-preserved Norman city and County Tipperary for its lush dairy pastures. In the Southwest, County Cork is noted for its maritime identity and impressive coastal scenery as well as being the site of Ireland's most famous attraction, the Blarney Stone. Kissing this stone is said to impart the gift of eloquence. County Kerry is loved for its rugged scenery and the Dingle Peninsula, which juts out into the Atlantic Ocean as the westernmost point of Europe. County Limerick is home of the vibrant city of Limerick, which is an important centre of music; and County Clare is noted for its outstanding landscapes and the Cliffs of Moher. In the West is County Galway with its vibrant city and wild scenery.
Situated on an estuary that opens onto the Atlantic Ocean, Ireland's second largest city has been likened to Dublin without the traffic; it is crammed with cosy pubs and cultural attractions. Sights include the 19th century Cork City Jail, the protestant Finbarr's Cathedral, and the Cork Museum, which is largely given over to the nationalist struggle in which Cork played an important role. Popular day trips from Cork include Blarney Castle and Kinsale. Cork is five hours from Dublin by car or bus.
Things to do and see in or around Cork
Blarney Castle
Blarney Castle is one of Ireland's oldest and most historic castles, built around 1446. An ancient stronghold of the MacCarthys, Lords of Muskerry and one of the strongest fortresses in Munster, its walls are 18ft (5m) thick in places. Located on the parapet of the castle is the famous 'Blarney Stone'. According to local legend, after kissing this stone, one will have the gift of eternal eloquence, or 'the gift of the gab'. To do this, visitors must first position themselves on their back, then lean their head back and downwards over the edge of the battlements, with the help of an attendant, in order to kiss the underside of the stone. The last admission to the castle and grounds is 30 minutes before closing.
Telephone: (0)21 438 5252 ; Monday to Saturday 9am to 6.30pm (May and September), 9am to 7pm (June to August), 9am to 6pm (October to April). Sundays 9.30am to 5.30pm
Galway, with its narrow streets full of vibrant pubs and old stone shop fronts, is an exceptionally enjoyable, free-spirited place to spend a few days, especially if they coincide with one of the cultural festivals held during various months of the year. There is the February Jazz Festival, the Easter Festival of Literature and the July Arts Festival, when the streets are alive with music and dancing and the town feasts on Guinness and oysters. The town is a good base from which to explore the west coast. To the East is lies scenic, rolling farmland while to the West is the exceptionally beautiful Connemara and Aran Islands.
Things to do and see in or around Galway
Connemara
Wild and barren, Connemara is a stunning patchwork of bogs, green valleys, mountains and lakes. On the coast are beautiful fishing villages and some superb white beaches washed by turquoise water - if by chance the weather is good, one could mistake it for Paradise. The Connemara National Park encompasses the remarkable granite peaks of the Twelve Bens and is wonderful walking country.
Aran Islands
Aran Islands, with their magnificent wild terrain, display evidence of the years of battering by wind and water. The islands - Inishmore, Inishmaan and Inisheer - lie about 30 miles (48km) out across the mouth of Galway Bay and are criss-crossed by miles of stone walls and dotted with some fine iron age archaeological sites. The islands' isolation allowed Irish culture to survive when it had all but disappeared elsewhere. Irish is still the native tongue, and until recently people still wore traditional Aran dress. The women still knit the famous Aran sweaters; historically each family used a different pattern in order to recognize fishermen drowned at sea. The islands are a haven for botanists and nature lovers with their abundance of flora, fauna and nesting birds.
Kinsale is an old fishing village just 18 miles (29km) south of Cork. Best known for the world renowned Old Head Golf Links, with its spectacular setting on a narrow head leading out into the Celtic Sea, Kinsale has a number of sights of interest including The Courthouse and Desmond Castle. Built as a custom house by the Earl of Desmond in the 16th century, Desmond Castle has a colourful history, ranging from Spanish occupation in 1601, during the Battle of Kinsale, to its use as a prison for captured American sailors during the American War of Independence. Known locally as 'The French Prison' after a tragic fire in which 54 prisoners, mainly French seamen, died in 1747. The castle was also used as a borough jail from 1791 to the onset of the Great Famine when it was used as an auxiliary workhouse tending to the starving populace. Two miles (3km) outside Kinsale is Charles Fort, constructed in the late 17th century on the site of an earlier coastal fortification, it is a classic example of a star-shaped fort. William Robinson, architect of the Royal Hospital in Kilmainham, Dublin, and Superintendent of Fortifications, is credited with its design. As one of the largest military forts in the country, Charles Fort has been associated with some of the most momentous events in Irish history, the most significant of which include the Williamite War in 1690 and the Irish Civil War in 1922-1923. Across the estuary is James Fort, an earlier structure, which was designed by Paul Ive in 1602. Kinsale has also earned itself the reputation as the gourmet centre for Ireland with numerous award-winning pubs and restaurants, and the annual Gourmet Festival in October. For more information see www.kinsale.ie
On first glance Waterford looks like any one of Europe's ports with their dull quays and ugly cranes, but once one has entered its old city walls dating from the Viking period, the town takes on a decidedly medieval feel. It has many narrow alleyways and ancient buildings, including Norman Reginald's Tower. The legacy of the Georgian era has been etched into many of its fine buildings including the City Hall and Bishop's Palace. The city is best known, of course, for its world-famous crystal; the factory, located outside town provides guided tours for visitors. For more information see www.waterfordtourism.org
Climate
Ireland has a temperate climate and is cold and damp much of the year. Summer (May to September) is the warmest and driest season and is the best time to visit, though attractions can get crowded in July and August. Winter is characterised by short, wet, foggy days and long night, but the temperature rarely gets below freezing due to the tempering Gulf Stream winds that buffet the west coast of Ireland. Some attractions are only open in summer.
Health
There are no special health requirements for visitors to Ireland. Health insurance is advisable unless from the UK or other EU countries, most of which have reciprocal agreements with Ireland. A European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) should be obtained before departing for travel to Ireland. Medical facilities are good, and payment for treatment is usually required in cash.
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