Travel guide – lombok
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Overview
One island to the east of Bali, Lombok has yet to be discovered by the package tourist – the beaches and coastal villages are comparatively undeveloped and the locals are relatively indifferent to tourists. Although it is inevitably compared with its better-known neighbour the island differs in many respects – physically, culturally, linguistically and historically. The indigenous Islamic Sasak people make up 90 percent of the population, and although they appear to live amicably with the Balinese minority there is some animosity, not surprising given that a lot of the economic advantages of increased tourism have eluded the native Sasak.
The mountainous north of the island is dominated by a spectacular volcano of Mt Rinjani, at 12,221ft (3,726m) the third highest peak in Indonesia and a popular four-day trek for locals and tourists alike. To the south are the central plains which contain the most productive agricultural areas as well the major conurbation on the west coast, an amalgamation of the towns of Ampenan, Mataram, Cakranegara and Sweta. Further south again, beyond a range of low inland hills, are the sweeping bays and pure white sands of the southern beaches, all of which can be explored from Kuta (not to be confused with Bali's Kuta), the main resort town of southern Lombok and surfing Mecca of the island. Several groups of islands lie off the Lombok northwest coast, the best known are the three Gili Islands – Trawangan, Meno and Air – which have been popular with backpackers for many years seeking a simple lifestyle of sea, sun and sand, although, as with much of the island, they are now becoming more widely discovered and as a result more expensive.
The vast metropolis of Ampenan, Mataram, Caimanegara and Swete, with a population of around 250,000, comprises four towns, the boundaries of which are all but indistinguishable to the casual visitor. While Sweta is the main transport hub and site of the island's biggest market, Ampenan, the town furthest west, is the main tourist area and the location of most shops, hotels and restaurants. Most visitors pass through the area fairly quickly but there are one or two sights worth seeing nearby, including the weaving factories in the capital Mataram, whose processes have remained largely unchanged for hundreds of years, and a weaving village to the south where traditionally dressed women work on wooden handlooms. There are a number of shrines and temples open to visitors, the best are centred around the Mayura Water Palace, dating from 1744 and used by the royal court during the Balinese rule of Lombok.
Situated a few miles off the north west coast of Lombok, the three Gili Islands - Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air - were discovered by backpackers in the 80s and until recently remained a haven for budget travellers in search of paradise. The islands are surrounded by glorious soft sandy beaches, colourful coral reefs and crystal clear turquoise waters, ideal for diving. There are almost no roads or motor vehicles but small ferries transport guests between islands, none more than twenty minutes apart. Most of the accommodation is on Gili Trawangan, generally small bamboo bungalows a few meters from the beach – like Thailand's islands twenty years ago. Mainstream tourism is beginning to establish itself here and a few exclusive hotels have opened up, most recently on the smallest, least developed island, Gili Meno.
Not to be confused with its better-known namesake on Bali, Lombok's Kuta is almost totally undeveloped by comparison, having only been discovered by surfers a few years ago and still devoid of any large hotels. The whole south coast is characterised by miles of stunning curved sandy bays set beneath empty, rolling hills. There are plans for development, but, with luck, that is still many years away. The southeast peninsula and Awang Bay are dotted with tiny fishing villages untouched by tourism, while inland villages specializing in local crafts such as pottery, weaving, basketware and carving, can be visited.
Just a few miles south of Ampenan, Senggigi is the most developed tourist resort on Lombok, characterised by broad bays, towering headlands and first-rate hotels and restaurants, and with the only nightlife in Lombok. Being close to the airport it makes a good first or last night stop for those intent on exploring the island. The drive north along the coast from Senggigi to Pemenang is a great day out for those with a car offering spectacular views of the Gili Islands and across to Bali when the weather is clear. The twisting road takes visitors to an expanse of coast that is totally undeveloped with only a few coastal villages dotted behind sweeping bays of turquoise water and palm trees. Just south of Senggigi is the Batu Bolong Temple – weighed down under an excess of lurid pink paint its shrines are spread around a rocky promontory with fabulous views in both directions along the coast. The main part of the temple is built over an archway in the rock, the hole through which virgins were once supposedly sacrificed to appease the gods. Today this is a quiet and peaceful spot and a favourite with local fishermen.
Climate
Lombok lies just south of the equator and has a tropical monsoon climate with two seasons: wet (October to March) and dry (May to September). Daytime temperatures average 80oF to 90oF (27oC to 32oC) along the west coast, with hotter temperatures inland. May to July are generally the most pleasant months to travel to Lombok.
Health
There are a number of health risks associated with travel to Indonesia and medical advice should be taken at least three weeks before departing. Malaria is a year round risk except in Jakarta, other large cities and the tourist resorts of Java and Bali. The dengue fever mosquito is found throughout Indonesia and visitors should be aware of a significant increase in reported cases of dengue fever throughout all the country's provinces during the rainy season. Outbreaks of bird flu have occurred. Human cases were reported, and 21 people have died from the disease, most recently in February 2006; travellers are not at risk but are advised to avoid close contact with caged, domestic and wild birds, and ensure that all eggs or poultry dishes are thoroughly cooked as a precaution. The Ragunan Zoo in Jakarta was closed after bird flu was detected in bird cages. Travellers' diarrhoea is a major risk; visitors should only drink bottled water and avoid dairy products, uncooked meat, salads and unpeeled fruit. The standard of local medical care is poor and very expensive. It is essential that you take out full medical and travel insurance covering all eventualities. A yellow fever certificate is required from those travelling from infected areas. A tetanus booster is recommended for all travellers to tsunami-affected areas in Indonesia and any country, if their last immunisation was five or more years ago. An outbreak of tetanus was reported in Banda Aceh and Meulaboh in Aceh. There have been a number of fatalities. Outbreaks of polio have been reported in Sumatra and Java.
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