Travel guide – crete
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Overview
The island of Crete is equipped with more tourist facilities than any other Greek island, which is fair enough because it is the largest. The reason why thousands of foreigners visit Crete each year, however, is not so much for the traditional Greek island experience, as for investigating the remains of the archaic Minoan culture that flourished here thousands of years before Christ. Some parts of the island have been overpowered by tourist resorts and massive hotels, but fortunately Crete does still allow for exploring endless beaches, numerous villages, remote mountains and some natural curiosities like caves and gorges for those who take pains to avoid the 'madding crowds'.
The famed Minoan archaeological sites, particularly the palace of Knossos and Phaistos, are vast and can take a great deal of time and effort to fully explore and appreciate. There are numerous other sites of interest as well, and not all related to the Minoan era. Crete has experienced thousands of years of habitation and has a complicated and diverse heritage, including years of Roman, Venetian and Turkish rule, that have all left their mark.
As one experienced traveller reportedly said: "there is lots to see on Crete, and a lot not to see." The best of Crete for those who do not want an in-and-out package style visit can be found on the east and west tips of the island, areas that have retained most of the island's traditions and natural beauty, as opposed to the northern coast that has been harshly overdeveloped. Gateway to the island is the large, modern city of Heraklion, which is anything but an island idyll, but a vital commercial centre.
During the past 20 years the town of Áyios Nikólaos, about 43 miles (69km) east of Heraklion, has boomed under the patronage of package-tour groups who fill up hotels along the coastline. Despite the crowds, the town remains a pleasant place to visit and is a good base from which to explore the eastern part of the island. The town does not boast any major historical or archaeological sites, but it does have a curiosity: the deep pool in the environs of the harbour, called Lake Voulismeni, has many tales and legends attached to it, and was once believed to be bottomless. Áyios Nikólaos also has the usual Archaeological Museum found in most Greek tourist towns, and this one is worth seeing for its growing collection of Minoan artefacts. The museum houses finds from the cemetery of Aghia Photia, dating back to 2,300 BC, including more than 1,500 vases. Besides all the Minoan finds the museum also has the skull of a young Roman athlete wearing a gold olive-leaf wreath dated to the 1st century AD. Almost everyone who stays in Áyios Nikólaos makes the two excursions to the fortified islet of Spinalónga, and the inland village of Kritsá, with its famous frescoed church dating from the 14th and 15th centuries.
The largest city in western Crete and, together with Rethymnon the most attractive, Haniá is a historically charming labyrinth of jumbled Venetian and Turkish buildings surrounding a small harbour, with colourful markets, town squares, craft shops and fine dining possibilities. Narrow, winding lanes are lined with tavernas, cafes and shops, and ancient alleyways lead to endless photographic opportunities that encompass overhanging wooden balconies, delicate stonework and white Orthodox churches. The port area is the oldest and most interesting part of town and is busiest at night with many bars and restaurants. A promenade curves around the harbour leading from the main hotel area. There are a few museums worth visiting, including the Archaeological and Naval Museums, and the famed walk through the Samaria Gorge is a worthwhile excursion from the town.
Things to do and see in or around Hania
The Samaria Gorge
It is an arduous trip but well worth it to see one of the great natural wonders of Europe, the Samaria Gorge in the White Mountains in western Crete. From the top of the gorge it is a 10-mile (16km) hike through the dramatic geological formations and wildflower-strewn cliffsides of the National Park. From the village of Agia Roumeli at the end of the gorge hikers board boats to sail to Khora Sfakion or Paleochora where there are buses back to Haniá, Rethymnon or Heraklion.
The gorge is open 6am to 3pm, generally from May to October (depending on weather conditions)
Heraklion is the main city on the island of Crete and usually the starting point for visitors wishing to explore the island. The city, built on a fairly steep hillside, has a huge harbour to accommodate ferries and cruise liners, and an international airport. Heraklion is busy, bustling and full of hotels, fast food outlets, shops and traffic. The main square of Plateia Venizelou is a pedestrian mall sporting cafes and restaurants, with some fascinating shops in the surrounding streets. Like many Greek cities Heraklion’s architecture was influenced by Venetian occupation, and a Venetian fortress dominates the harbour. The city’s pride and joy, though, is its archaeological museum, which contains the world’s most comprehensive collection of artefacts from the Minoan civilisation, which flourished on Crete around 1,600 BC. Heraklion is close to the major archaeological site associated with the Minoans at Knossos.
Things to do and see in or around Heraklion
The Palace of Knossos
The Minoan palace at Knossos, covering an area of 215,278 square feet (20,000 sq metres), is one of the world’s greatest sightseeing experiences. It consists of four wings, arranged around a rectangular central court. The palace originally had many storeys, was built of ashlar blocks and had walls decorated with splendid frescoes. British archaeologist, Arthur Evans, who excavated most of the labyrinthine Knossos site, has painstakingly restored some sections of the palace. The remains now visible are actually not those of the original palace, which was built around 2,000 BC and destroyed by an earthquake about 1,700 BC. A subsequent more complex palace was then constructed. The palace was first unearthed in 1878 by a Cretan merchant and antiquarian, but was not systematically excavated until 1900. The Knossos site is about three miles (5km) south of Heraklion.
Daily 8am to 8pm (April to mid-October); weekdays 8am to 5pm, and weekends 8.30am to 3pm (October to March)
Archaeological Museum
A visit to the Minoan palace at Knossos should be complemented with a visit to the wonderful Archaeological Museum in Heraklion. Thousands of artefacts depicting the intriguing Minoan culture are on display, from magnificent bull-headed drinking vessels to the mysterious Phaistos disk inscribed with undeciphered symbols.
8am to 7pm (July to October); 8am to 5pm (November to March); closed Monday mornings
Historical Museum of Crete
This museum deals with Crete’s more modern history and highlights the islanders’ long battle for independence from the early Christian times to the present day. Exhibits include some Cretan folk art, and the Medieval and Renaissance collection contains the only painting on Crete by the island's famous painter El Greco, The Landscape of God-trodden Mount Sinai. Another world-renowned Cretan, Nikos Kazantzakis, author of Zorba the Greek, is also remembered in the museum, which houses a recreation of his study.
Telephone: (081) 283 219 ; Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm, and Saturday 9am to 2pm. Opening hours are shorter in winter
Gortyna
The remains of Gortyna to the south of Heraklion tell a later tale than that of the other archaeological sites in Crete, particularly the important inscribed stones, known as the Gortyn Law Code, dating back to the 5th century BC: a complete code of law based on Minoan tradition. The Code stones are still preserved and exhibited in the north round wall of the Roman Odeon at the Gortyna site (although of course the theatre was built much later in the 1st century AD). Other highlights at Gortyna (which was capital of Roman Crete and Cyrene) include the Church of St Titus, where Christianity was first introduced to the island and the Temple of Apollo Pythios, dating from 700 BC.
Telephone: 28920 31144 ; Daily 8.30am to 3pm
Phaistos
About 38 miles (61km) south of Heraklion lies Crete’s second most important Minoan archaeological site, the Palace complex of Phaistos, considered by many to be a finer example of Minoan architecture than Knossos. The west propylon, the monumental entranceway to the palace, is particularly impressive, and the ceremonial staircase and great court are breathtaking. Like Knossos the site has actually been built on twice, with the original palace, built about 2,000 BC, having been destroyed by fire and replaced with a new palace around 300 years later.
8am to 5pm; closed on Mondays
Anyone could be forgiven for mistaking the hugely popular package tour resort town of Rethymnon for a sort of Cretan-inspired theme resort, but the best thing about the town is that its picturesque historic heart is actually genuine. The old town is just that, old, its winding alleys overhung with pretty wooden flower-bedecked balconies flaunt historic Venetian and Turkish architectural influences. Fortunately a recent mad spate of tourist development has left the old town untouched, so it can now delight the many snap-happy visitors and serve as a bustling venue for tavernas, restaurants and souvenir shops. To the east is one of Crete's longest sandy beaches, which has become the target of developers and is lined with apartment blocks and hotels. Excursions are easily made to Heraklion, Hania or the monastery of Arkadhi.
Things to do and see in or around Rethymnon
Monastery of Arkdhi
Situated about 14 miles (23km) south of Rethymnon, the Monastery of Arkádhi is something of a national Cretan shrine. During the 1866 rebellion against the Turks the monastery became a refuge for Cretan insurgents and their families. They were surrounded by the Turks and after two days of fighting, ignited the gunpowder storeroom, which killed hundreds of both Turks and Cretans. The tragedy brought international recognition to the cause for Cretan independence. An ossuary displays the skulls of many of the victims and it is possible to see the roofless room where the explosion took place, as well as the surviving 16th-century church that is one of the loveliest Venetian buildings on the island. There is also a small museum.
Daily 8am to 1.30pm, and 3.30pm to 8pm
Climate
Crete enjoys hot, dry summers and mild winters. Temperatures in July and August range from 86ºF (30ºC) during the day to 72ºF (22ºC) at night. Rainfall is almost non-existent in summer but showers can be expected between October and April.
Health
There are no specific health risks in Greece, but visitors who plan to walk through forested areas are advised to consider vaccination against tick-borne encephalitis. Medical facilities in Greece vary; those in major cities are excellent but many of the islands are some distance from a decent hospital. Food and water are safe, but those visiting for short periods should consider sticking to bottled water. UK nationals are entitled to a refund on emergency hospital treatment under a reciprocal agreement between the UK and Greece, and a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) should be taken on holiday for this purpose. Despite this, all visitors are advised to take out medical insurance. Yellow fever vaccination certificates are required for those arriving from infected areas. Bird flu was detected in swans in northern Greece in February 2006, but stringent measures have been taken to contain the outbreak; no human infections have been reported. The risk to people is believed to be very low, but visitors are advised to avoid any contact with caged, wild or domestic birds, and to ensure that all poultry and egg dishes are well cooked as a precaution.
The basics
Getting Around
A comprehensive bus system makes Crete easy to travel around, with frequent services along the north coast, and less frequent buses servicing places of interest on the south coast via the mountainous interior. There are also many tour companies in the towns and resorts that offer excursions to all the major sites around the island. Ferries link the towns along the south coast and the islands, but many only operate during summer. Taxis can be hired to all sites and are reasonable especially if shared with two or three people; travel agents can find drivers that speak English to act as a guide as well. For those with limited time on the island, hiring a car is the most flexible way to get around outside the cities and towns, although travellers should be warned that Crete has an exceptionally high road fatality rate due to rough surfaces and curving mountain roads, particularly in the south. It does however allow one to leave the overdeveloped tourist trail and explore the real Crete, and there is no shortage of car rental companies in all the main towns and at the airports. Mopeds and motorbikes can also be hired, but again can be dangerous on winding, potholed roads.
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