Travel guide – corsica
Go back to travel guide home
Overview
The island of Corsica is France's 'little bit of Italy', it being close to that neighbouring country and therefore long influenced by the language, architecture and cuisine of the Italian mainland. The local language, for example, is Tuscan-inspired. Corsica has been under French rule for only 200 years after being sold by Genoa to Paris in 1768. Before that happened, this island that rises majestically out of the Mediterranean, belonged by turns to the Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, Moors and Lombards, each conquering nation leaving their mark and influence to be added to the Corsican melting pot. Corsicans today tolerate French rule unwillingly, but radicals are tempered by the realisation that the island economy is heavily subsidised and islanders enjoy generous tax concessions.
Today the invaders of this island, which gave birth to Napoleon and Columbus, are thousands of holidaymakers who flock particularly to the east coast with its long sandy beaches and pretty fishing villages. The west coast has awe-inspiring scenery with cliffs and rocky inlets, while the mountainous interior remains largely wild, in between cultivated groves of olives, pine plantations and cork forests.
The capital of Corsica, Ajaccio lies in a calm bay on the west coast of Corsica, set against a backdrop of wooded hills. It is a relaxed rather than lively town and visitors come here to enjoy its wealth of cafés, restaurants and shops. The sights here mainly revolve around Napoleon, who was born here. The town's main sights are the magnificent cathedral where Napoleon was christened, the Bonaparte residence and numerous statues and street names related to his family. Corsicans themselves are not particularly proud of the island having spawned Napoleon and many consider him deridingly as a jumped-up Frenchman. Locals in Ajaccio are, however, willing to boast about the Musée Fesch, which contains the art collection of Napoleon's maternal uncle, Cardinal Fesch. The collection of Italian paintings is considered to rate second only to that of the Louvre.
Things to do and see in or around Ajaccio
Filitosa
The most celebrated prehistoric site in Corsica, Filitosa is worth a visit for its megalithic menhir statues, which have been carved to represent human faces or armed figures. The purpose of these granite structures is still unclear, and many mysteries surround the many ancient structures on the site. Filitosa V, with its sword and dagger, the face of Filitosa IX, and the five menhir statues around the foot of a 1,200-year old olive tree, are the most important structures of the prehistoric site of Filitosa. A small museum offers further menhirs, as well as some ancient tools and pottery found in the caves, dating back to 3,300 BC.
Telephone: (04) 9574 0091 ; Daily 9am to sunset between April and October
Iles Sanguinaires
The four small islands in the Gulf of Ajaccio, with their red rocks and jagged outline are a popular destination for boat trips from Ajaccio. They are a sanctuary for birds, rare fauna and flora, and offer secluded swimming spots and good walking. The islands lie just off Pointe de la Parata, where there are some walks and beautiful coastal scenery.
The inland area along the northwest coast of Corsica has been renowned since Roman times as an orchard of olive, fig and orange trees and the breadbasket of the island, crisscrossed by a network of narrow, winding roads. Tiny villages such as Sant'Antonino and Speloncato perch high above the countryside built around rocky outcrops, while others along the Artisan's Route, like Pigna, proudly display their traditional crafts such as pottery and stringed instruments. Set beneath a wall of imposing jagged mountains that remain snow-capped until July, the rocky coastline of the Balagne area shelters a string of stunning white sand beaches and an old fishing settlement now turned into one of the island's most popular resort towns at Calvi. In the shadow of its citadel built by the Genoese, Calvi bathes in the legend of Christopher Columbus whose birthplace it is said to be. It was during an attack on Calvi that another famous mariner, Lord Nelson lost his eye. Not far away from this historic and compact gem can be found another port town, Ile Rousse, founded by Pascal Paoli in direct contrast to Calvi, which he felt was too Genoese. Many of the settlements along this coast have been developed into busy holiday villages, however the stunning scenery and idyllic beaches more than compensate for the crowds. Trains connect Calvi and Ile Rousse with Ajaccio and Bastia. Buses are also available.
Situated at the northeast of Corsica, Bastia is the island’s major commercial centre. Despite this the old town has retained its charm; opulent Baroque churches and crumbling pastel houses line the maze of tightly packed streets and alleyways. The Vieux Port is the most photogenic part of town, where old houses tower above the harbour and the reflections from colourful fishing vessels ripple on the water. The citadel perched high on the headland dominates the other side. The harbour comes alive in the evening when tourists fill the waterside bars and restaurants. The pebble beaches below town tend to be very crowded in summer and sun seekers are advised to head further south where a sandy shore extends for miles down the east coast of the island.
The ancient town of Bonifacio at the very southern tip of Corsica dates from 833, but there is nothing old-fashioned about the tourist trappings and commercialisation of this buzzing haven that attracts huge crowds, particularly in summer. The visitors come for the magnificent setting, for the town sits atop a narrow limestone peninsula, the bright white cliffs plunging into the cerulean blue Bouches de Bonifacio strait which separates Corsica from Sardinia, just seven miles (11km) away. The most scenic way to approach Bonifacio is by boat, through the channel, almost a mile long that protects the town's beautiful natural harbour. No wonder that the buzzing marina attracts yachts from all over the world, as well as ferries and passenger boats packed with tourists from Sardinia and elsewhere. Alternatively you can fly in from Marseille or bus from the other Corsican towns. The Italian-flavoured town boasts quaint medieval architecture, offset with the requisite cafes, restaurants and boutiques catering to the tourist trade. The old town and citadel, built in the 12th century by the Genoese conquerors, is reached up a long, steep flight of steps. The citadel has been put to use in modern times as headquarters for the French Foreign Legion, which was based here between 1963 and 1983. There are diversions aplenty in the town and surrounds, ranging from watersports of all sorts to be enjoyed at the nearby Plage de Piantarella, to some splendid golf courses and boat trips to the offshore Archipel des Lavezzi island group.
North of Bastia is Cap Corse, a 25-mile (40km) peninsula edged with quiet and quaint fishing villages. The peninsula is divided by a narrow spine of mountains, which rise over 3,000ft (914m) above sea level. On the east side of the mountain spine a series of small villages cuddle into coves, while on the west coast the settlements cling precariously to rugged cliffs battered by wild waves. The peninsula's best stretch of sandy beach is Plage de Tamarone, near Macinaggio. Favourite village with visitors is picturesque Centuri, while hikers head for the many walking trails like the well-known Sentier des Douaniers. Make sure the camera is loaded for visits to the panoramic viewpoints of Capo Grosso, Moulin Mattei and the Tour de Seneque, above Pino. The vineyards of Patrimonio are renowned, particularly for their muscat, and most wineries welcome visitors for wine tasting. The wine route, or 'route des vins', is signposted from St-Florent.
For a change of pace on your island holiday pack some hiking boots along with your swimsuit and head for the dramatic Corsican hinterland. Corte lies marooned in the centre of Corsica surrounded by dramatic granite mountains. This independent and proud town has for long epitomised Corsican nationalism – for a short time in the 18th century it was the capital of Pascal Paoli's short-lived Corsican state. Now a university town it remains dominated by the Haute Ville (upper town) and its forbidding citadel, site of the Musée de la Corse, the islands premier museum. It easy to spend a morning here wandering around the narrow cobbled streets or soaking up the atmosphere in one of the many bars and cafés that line the main street. Corte is an excellent base for exploring the island's wonderful mountain scenery. A few miles to the southwest, near Bergeries de Grotelle, walkers will find a number of glacial lakes and around Valée de la Restonica are a series of stunning natural gorges and basins with refreshing swimming spots. Buses and trains connect Corte with Ajaccio, Bastia and other towns on the island.
The small seaside resort of Porto is watched over by the 16th-century Genoese Tower standing guard over the fishing harbour, and although crowded in summer, retains a certain charm. It is an excellent base from which to explore the surrounding countryside and spectacular coastline. The Gorges de Spelunca, a spectacular ravine, is popular for its rocky pools, Genoese bridges and hiking opportunities, while the Forêt d'Aïtone is one of the island's most beautiful forests with waterfalls and numerous walking trails.
Things to do and see in or around Porto
Scandola Nature Reserve
The Cape Girolata peninsula is classified as a Unesco World Heritage Site and encompasses the Scandola Nature Reserve, an ecological treasure covering 1,000 hectares (2,471 acres) of scrub and sea. The promontory is marked by incredible rock formations that were formed by Monte Cinto's volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. The subsequent erosion has fashioned caves and grottoes deep into the rock. The headland and its surrounding waters support significant colonies of seabirds, dolphins and seals, as well as 450 types of seaweed and some remarkable fish such as the grouper, a species more commonly found in the Caribbean. Scandola is off-limits to walkers and can be viewed only by boat; trips can be arranged from both Calvi and Porto.
Les Calanques
The mass of intriguing red rock formations along the coastal road between Porto and Piana are known as Les Calanques, and are a highlight of a visit to Corsica. The narrow, twisting road reveals a landscape of spectacular vistas and panoramas that outdo each other at every turn, where wind and sea have eroded the pink granite rock into pillars, huge boulders and weird shapes. The scenery is most spectacular at sunset, when the setting sun highlights the natural red and pink colours of the rock, and the drive is best appreciated in the direction from Piana to Porto.
Climate
The south of France has a warm Mediterranean climate with hot summers and mild winters. Strong winds, known as la Mistral, can occur in the Cote d'Azur, Provence and in the Rhone valley particularly over the winter and spring. Northern France, including Paris, has a temperate climate similar to southern England with warm summers, cold winters and rainfall throughout the year. The western coast, from the Loire valley to the Pyrenees, is milder and summer days are generally very hot. During the second half of July and August most French take their five-week vacation to the coasts and mountains, and empty cities tend to shut down accordingly.
Health
French hospitals and health facilities are first class. British, and visitors from other EU countries, are entitled to heavily discounted medical treatment and medicines on presentation of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Otherwise doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services. Medical insurance is advised. Pharmacies will provide some first aid, but charge for it. There have been increased reports of hantavirus (caused by rodents) in the Ardennes, Aisne and Jura regions. Rabies also occurs occasionally. In February 2006, France confirmed its first cases of bird flu; all affected birds have been culled and precautionary measures taken. The risk is low for travellers, but close contact with domestic, wild and caged birds should be avoided, and all poultry and egg dishes well cooked.
top of page