Travel guide – brittany
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Overview
Much of Brittany's history dates back to its Celtic roots. The landscape is littered with ancient and mysterious standing stones and the local language (sadly in danger of dying out) is based on Celtic, more closely resembling Welsh than French. The Celts came from Britain in around the 6th century with their culture, traditions and folklore that still reign supreme in the region today, particularly in the rather arid interior, lending Brittany a touch of mystery and enchantment. Keep your eyes open and you may even imagine you spy a Cornish pixie in the underbrush! The Bretons maintained an independent state until the 16th century in this northwest corner of France, which protrudes into the Atlantic with an irregular coastline featuring inlets, cliffs, offshore islands and stretches of white, sandy beach.
It is the coastline that has made Brittany the most popular summer holiday destination in France, next to the Côte d'Azur, for both French and foreign visitors. The coast is liberally sprinkled with resorts and camp-sites, always full during the summer season.
One of Brittany's most modern and happening holiday resorts is, ironically, alongside one of Europe's most important, ancient and mysterious archaeological sites at Carnac on the south coast of Brittany, in the Bay of Biscay. Just north of the seaside town hundreds of massive standing stones, even older than Stonehenge or the pyramids of Egypt, are aligned in rows in a field, their original purpose unknown. The nearby Musée de Préhistoire complements these fascinating relics with displays of collections dating as far back as 450,000 BC. The family resort of Carnac Plage is bright and breezy, sporting a sand-duned peninsula, a lovely stretch of beach, plenty of entertainment and fun in the sun facilities.
Opposite St Malo, sitting atop a rocky headland above the Rance, Dinard was a popular spot with the British in Edwardian times; they still visit today for the bracing sea air and a stroll along the promenade. The seafront is lined with Victorian buildings, which ensure the town still retains its elegant and sedate old world character. The main beach is La Grande Plage, a strip of sand between the two peninsulas that define the edges of the old town. It is popular with families and is crowded on hot days. Smaller and more isolated is Plage de St-Enogat, a 20-minute walk east through the village of St-Enogat, or Plage du Prieuré, just a 10-minute walk from town. There is a great difference between high and low tides, and swimming pools along the Grand Plage and the Plage du Prieuré beaches catch seawater during high tides for those who opt not to make the trek along the salt flats during low tides to bathe in the sea.
Just west of Nantes, La Baule is Brittany’s most fashionable and expensive resort. Like most Breton seaside towns, it was the Victorians that first flocked here to play and promenade in the balmy air. Today it is favoured by the French rather than foreigners, a popular holiday destination for the Parisian upper-middle-class when they need to unwind. La Baule's inviting five mile (eight km) stretch of white sandy beach provides the perfect place to acquire a summer tan and show off designer beachwear while frolicking in waters warmed by the Gulf Stream. The town itself provides the other holiday necessities: a casino, plenty of shops and boutiques and some excellent bars and restaurants.
Attractively situated on islands in the estuary of France's mighty Loire River, the solid city of Nantes exudes an air of importance and historical significance. Although not officially part of Brittany any longer, this city has always been regarded as the Breton commercial and maritime centre, once a springboard for exciting colonial expeditions, shipbuilding and trading. Today it remains a wealthy industrial port, its architectural heritage reflecting its past achievements, from the medieval remnants in the narrow streets of pedestrianised Bouffay near the castle of the Ducs de Bretagne to the magnificent stained-glass windows of its impressive cathedral. The city also has some good museums including the Musée des Beaux-Arts, which has a fine collection of sculpture and paintings from the 12th to 19th centuries, and Musée de Jules Verne that contains memorabilia of the famous futuristic novelist who was born in Nantes.
Brittany's oldest city beckons those who need nothing more from a few days' break than cobbled streets to wander through, a lazy river to cruise gently down, or a wide selection of cafes and bars to sample. The idyllic town of Quimper, spread around the junction of the Steir and Odet Rivers on the western edge of Brittany, serves the purpose well. Fortunately it was spared the bombs of WWII and has escaped too much modern development, so the medieval character remains intact with old buildings overhanging narrow lanes and footbridges. If you can bestir yourself to investigate the local interests take a tour of one of the pottery studios that has been turning out internationally renowned Quimperware for centuries.
The lively resort town of St Malo boasts a colourful history as a fortified island citadel that was once run by corsairs who declared it a republic. Today this port on the English Channel swarms with tourists, its streets choked with tour buses in the summer months and its natural harbour acting as a busy ferry terminal for those crossing between Britain, France and the Channel Islands just to the north. Because of the town's medieval charm many visitors opt to spend a night or two here before their ferry crossing, and are rewarded with a pleasant sojourn behind old city walls in a quaint collection of hotels, restaurants, bars and shops. Just a hop and a skip away are some vast clean brown sandy beaches, ideal for family fun. Stroll the ramparts of the great city walls as the sun sets and it is easy to realise why this ancient city is now the most popular tourist destination in Brittany.
Climate
The south of France has a warm Mediterranean climate with hot summers and mild winters. Strong winds, known as la Mistral, can occur in the Cote d'Azur, Provence and in the Rhone valley particularly over the winter and spring. Northern France, including Paris, has a temperate climate similar to southern England with warm summers, cold winters and rainfall throughout the year. The western coast, from the Loire valley to the Pyrenees, is milder and summer days are generally very hot. During the second half of July and August most French take their five-week vacation to the coasts and mountains, and empty cities tend to shut down accordingly.
Health
French hospitals and health facilities are first class. British, and visitors from other EU countries, are entitled to heavily discounted medical treatment and medicines on presentation of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Otherwise doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services. Medical insurance is advised. Pharmacies will provide some first aid, but charge for it. There have been increased reports of hantavirus (caused by rodents) in the Ardennes, Aisne and Jura regions. Rabies also occurs occasionally. In February 2006, France confirmed its first cases of bird flu; all affected birds have been culled and precautionary measures taken. The risk is low for travellers, but close contact with domestic, wild and caged birds should be avoided, and all poultry and egg dishes well cooked.
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