Travel guide – the alps
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Overview
The vast majority of tourists visiting Austria head straight for one of its cosy alpine villages in the Tirol region. Among the wooded mountains is some of the world’s best skiing. Unlike many French and Swiss resorts, most resorts in Austria are real, friendly villages on the valley floor and despite expanding enormously over the last 20 years the development has generally been in good taste, with traditional-looking chalets perched among the ancient, domed churches. Austrian resorts are also more fun and welcoming than many in the Alps; the Austrians know how to enjoy themselves and don’t find it demeaning to speak their guest’s language. However many Austrian resorts lie fairly low and experience unreliable snowfall. To ensure guaranteed good skiing it is best to head for the western edges of the Tirol, to St Anton, Lech or Zürs, which all have extensive skiing and more reliable snowfall. The ski season runs from December to April but the villages remain bustling in the summer, when the valleys are filled with climbers and walkers who come to enjoy some of the breathtaking scenery.
Among Austrian resorts Kitzbuhel is the most commercial, glamorous and expensive. The beautiful alpine town, which dates back to the 9th century, has remained fairly unspoilt. In the winter you will hear the jingle of bells as a horse-drawn sleigh is pulled through its cobbled, traffic-free town centre. There is an extensive and varied skiing area offering excellent skiing and snowboarding both on and off-piste, but be prepared for a lack of snow in places. Due to the low altitude the lower slopes are rarely open. If the skiing in Kitzbuhel doesn't tire you out, the nightlife certainly will. The atmosphere is bright, boisterous and fun and doesn't stop till the not-quite-so-early hours. This is also Austria's winter entertainment capital and attracts performers from all over the continent throughout the season.
Saalbach and its close neighbour, Hinterglemm, have united in the picturesque Glemmtal Valley to form one of Europe's liveliest ski resorts, which is particularly popular with Dutch, German and Scandinavian visitors. The valley sides offer numerous ski slopes, but its low altitude means that snow conditions can deteriorate quickly. Nevertheless the resort has excellent snowmaking equipment, which ensures good coverage in the sunshine. There are more than 125 miles (200km) of ski trails linked by lifts, mainly suited to intermediate level skiers. There is, however, a two-mile long (3km) expert mogul descent on the north facing Zwolferkogel, and more than 60 miles (97km) of off-piste terrain. The pretty Tyrolean style villages are fairly new, but the ambience is traditional with chalets and sleigh bells adding to the charm.
St Anton is a top destination for British skiers and snowboarders, attracted by both the first-class skiing and the beer-fuelled après ski sessions. Along with its neighbours, Lech and Zürs (only a short bus ride away), St Anton offers extensive skiing for intermediate and advanced skiers but is possibly not the best choice for beginners or non-skiers as lower slopes can get crowded and there are not many off-slope facilities. The resort, which sprawls along the bottom of a narrow valley, is a Mecca for ski-bums attracted by the excellent off-piste runs - the best Austria has to offer. St Anton's south-facing slopes can get slushy by the end of the day, particularly in spring, and partly for this reason the collection of bars on the slopes above town get packed by around 3pm. The most famous is the Krazy Kangaroo, which has live bands and is filled by Austrian and English revellers dancing in ski boots till the bar closes, when the short run home in the dark becomes a challenge to some.
Climate
Although cold, the high alpine resorts are usually much sunnier in winter than below in the valleys where fog and cloud persist, but in summer the Alps may become cloudy during the hotter part of the day. In autumn and spring some alpine valleys (particularly those running from south to north) experience the warm and very dry wind known as the foehn, which can quickly melt snow and trigger off avalanches on the mountain slopes.
Health
No vaccinations are necessary for business visits or general tourism. There is, however, a risk of tick-borne encephalitis for long-term visitors who expect to be visiting rural or forested areas in spring or summer. These travellers should consider vaccination and ensure they take precautions against tick infestation. Water and food are safe. Medical facilities are excellent. Medical insurance is advised unless from the UK - citizens of EU countries can get free emergency medical treatment at public hospitals in Austria on production of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Bird flu was found in dead swans in the southern province of Styria on 15 February 2006 and stringent measures are being taken to contain the outbreak. The risk is very low for travellers, but all close contact with wild, domestic and caged birds should be avoided, and all poultry and egg dishes well cooked as a precaution.
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